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Moving Stories

WAR AND PEACE AND KIZOMBA: by Ananya Kabir

Prelude: ‘Paris is about life’

On the 14th of November 2015, I was at the Eurostar check-in at the Gare du Nord, Paris, scrolling through my Facebook newsfeed. A quote from the French Cartoonist Joann Sfar, (who in fact works for Charlie Hebdo) reposted by a Parisian friend, caught my eye: ‘Friends from the whole world! Thank you for #PrayforParis, but we don’t need more religion! Our faith goes to music! Kisses! Life! Champagne and Joy! #Parisisaboutlife’. As it so happens, I was carrying with me back to London my dancing shoes and a bottle of champagne gifted to me by one of the nicest people I know in Paris. The previous night, I had had dinner with some members of the Modern Moves team and friends. Two of us had been out for Kizomba research just the night before (the 12th November) at the club Khao Suay in the heart of the Bastille. The only reason we were not all back there on the 13th November is because we were recovering from the excellent conference ‘Orchestrating the Nation: Music, Dance, and Transnationalisms’.

Kizomba on thursdays at Khao Suay.  image taken from Facebook.
Kizomba on thursdays at Khao Suay.
photo taken from Facebook.

Professor Ulrike Meinhof from the University of Southampton had closed the conference with the remark that while the whole world was antagonised and divided, through music and dance human beings continued to connect with each other. However, even as we were celebrating this sentiment and our successful conference in one part of Paris, in another part, carnage and bloodshed was unfolding around the Bastille where we might have been dancing. The attacks were aimed at decimating people who were engaged in convivial and modern leisure pursuits typical of the concept of ‘Friday night’ in a city both global and intensely local: enjoying themselves at bars and restaurants, enjoying a sports spectacle, and enjoying a music concert at a venerable Paris venue, the Bataclan.

Since only coincidence and tiredness had prevented me from being right in the scene of action, I couldn’t help thinking of Khao Suay, the restaurant in the Rue du Lappe, Bastille, whose basement has been serving Paris’s kizomba dancers for quite a few years now. What would I have experienced had I actually found myself at Khao Suay that night? Through Facebook I pieced together the story. It seems that, as the terrifying drama unfolded with little clarity on the doorstep of the club, the owner of Khao Suay, Henri Lee, had the presence of mind to issue an all-night lockdown. Apparently, a club full of kizomba lovers danced the night away in each other’s arms, as the DJs played on. Henri Lee’s role was recollected in several posts as one of paterfamilias, saviour, and comforter, creating a temporary safe haven in the middle of mayhem and danger, even opening his kitchens at 3 am to serve chicken and French fries to the famished and frightened crowd.

I contacted Henri Lee (whom I didn’t know yet personally) on Facebook to ask him for his words. He graciously replied that he didn’t like to talk much about himself, and directed me to the same Facebook post that had caught my eye. Since the privacy of that post had been set to ‘public’, I reproduce a translation of it below:

‘Impossible to fall asleep… All this is a nightmare! Thousands of cops, firemen in the streets of such a deserted Bastille (although usually so lively on Friday evenings), thousands of sirens that we hear all over the place and all the people bursting into tears in the streets!!! One always thinks that this will happen to others yet this time it happened here. This is terror!!! I have to thank Henri Khao Suay Lee!!! Who kept us safe in his establishment and who took good care of all of us!! Opening the kitchen at 3 in the morning to offer chicken and frites to everyone, keeping us updated of what was happening and handling everything for the best, not everybody would have done so!!!! Huge hugs for the victims, their families and relatives!! I have no words.’

Having studied trauma for many years, I found it easy to detect its signs in this as well as other Facebook posts attesting to that evening at Khao Suay. All commentators remembered the poulet-frites, some even posting photos of the chicken ready to be consumed. The deep connection between food and social dance has been reiterated in Modern Moves events and investigations. Here, the food that arrived like manna from heaven was functioning by association to recall another activity involving shared enjoyment of sensation, and collective proof of the body’s vitality: dancing kizomba.

Once again the ‘kizomba hug’ came to rescue human beings caught in a web of violence and uncertainty, when the rhythms of the music induced a sense of order and calm within the space of the dance while chaos and curfew ruled outside. I say ‘once again’, because it was in similar conditions, during Angola under civil war, that the steps of the social dance we now call ‘kizomba’ were forged out of older dances. Stories of dancing until curfew was lifted, of talking, joking, and singing when the electricity disappeared for hours, are now part of kizomba lore.

Kwenda Lima demonstrating the kizomba hug at the Vienna Salsa Congress, 2013. Photo by Valentin Behringer.
Kwenda Lima demonstrating the kizomba hug at the Vienna Salsa Congress, 2013. Photo by Valentin Behringer.

My close brush with the ISIS attacks on Paris through kizomba at Khao Suay made me remember that parallel. More than ever, it impelled me to articulate some of my evolving ideas on war and peace and kizomba. I have noted in particular the warmth with which kizomba has been adopted in certain European countries which seem to have no shared history with Angola or any other part of continental Africa—either that of colonization or cultural exchange– those arising from the former Yugoslavia, the Baltic nations, Sweden, Hungary….

Couples dancing at the Budapest Kizomba Connection Festival, August 2015.  photo taken from the BKC Facebook page.
Couples dancing at the Budapest Kizomba Connection Festival, August 2015.
photo taken from the BKC Facebook page.

The propensity of people from these countries to embrace kizomba intrigues me and I’m searching for an answer through a combination of methodologies: through alternative frameworks for explaining cultural connections– most importantly, the Cold War, in which Cubans, together with their music and dance, moved between Europe and Africa— and a ‘psychosocial’ approach to society, where I read symptoms of collective traumas of different kinds together with ‘responses’ or ‘solutions’ (in this case, couple dance with African origins). The bigger question remains the basic Modern Moves one—why do people, often with no connection to Africa, turn to dances of African heritage for leisure, pleasure, or healing?

Kwenda Lima's Kaizen Dance at the Budapest Kizomba Connection, August 2015
Kwenda Lima’s Kaizen Dance at the Budapest Kizomba Connection, August 2015

In my search for answers, I have found extremely important the life stories of individuals in the world of dance. So in this Moving Story, I present three individuals with no ‘personal’ or ‘ancestral’ connection to Africa, whose love for kizomba developed in cities far from the African continent, and with small or non-existent African diasporas. The subjects of each story are very different from each other, but they also share many things—most importantly their practice of kizomba, and the generosity and trust to open up their innermost selves to a stranger (me). I like to think that these two factors are connected.

Read on!

1) Ljubljana: ‘We feel it’

Urska Merljak met me at the foot of the statue of France Preseren in the centre of Ljubljana. It was a sunny Sunday in January 2015. She sat waiting for me, holding a magazine, the Slovenian equivalent of The Big Issue. On my arrival, she showed me the word ‘Urska’ heading an article on the first page. It seemed some kind of sign: one of the things I’d asked earlier was the meaning of her name. I joined her at Preseren’s feet as she started telling me about his famous poem about Urska, a young girl from Ljubljana, who loved to dance.

Preseren's statue
preseren’s statue

One day, a river god rose from the waters of the Ljubljanica—which was flowing right by us under the city’s famed Triple Bridge. He joined her in the dance and spirited her away from the city to the waters. ‘A black cloud appeared and when it disappeared, so did they. No one saw Urska again.’ We contemplated these (non) coincidences: the poem (which is about couple dance as practiced traditionally in Central Europe), the protagonist and her namesake, and our convergence at the poet’s statue. She pointed to me a house across the street. ‘That’s the balcony under which Preseren used to serenade his Juliet’.

IMG_1149

Clouds, unspecified demons, and the romance of connection were everywhere in the conversation we had about why kizomba is meaningful to her. If intuition is a sixth sense, then to dance kizomba is to invoke the sensual part of ourselves as a seventh sense to be discovered. Hugging each other [which kizomba necessitates] leads to a connection of two souls. Indeed, each soul is a fragment of a larger whole, waiting to be united with each other. ‘We are stuck’; kizomba allows us to be unstuck, to unblock ourselves. The proximity it demands to a member of the opposite sex both releases ‘sexual energy’ and requires its reorientation towards ‘sensual energy.’ ‘People don’t think about [these energies] but they feel it. It’s up to them what they will do with the feeling.’

maps, monsters, and magic  juxtaposed in Ljubljana
maps, monsters, and magic juxtaposed in Ljubljana

Despite having a lovely Friday evening in the Kizomba room at the Magic Salsa Festival, which included meeting new people, talking to Kwenda Lima, and dancing hours of kizomba at the opening party, Urska had woken up that morning with ‘a feeling of overwhelming loneliness. We have our demons— we have to embrace them.’ Kizomba does this to us— it releases inexplicable feelings, and increases our vulnerability. ‘We are sometimes afraid of being hurt.’ At the same time, ‘we are starving to get some meaning into our lives—we are not just a body, we are a soul—indeed, a grand unified soul. When we relax our bodies in dance, embrace another body that is vibrating on the same level as us, this is so natural and divine at the same time. We need each other to awaken the parts of each other.’

IMG_1206We were by now sitting outdoors at a café on the banks of the river. The rays of the setting sun illuminated the scene and the church bells started ringing– a fitting son et lumiere show for our discussion on the natural and the divine—but also a reminder of the different temporalities, sacred and secular, which punctuate and order human lives in the past as well as the present. The streak of anti-rationality with which Urska started our conversation, returns. ‘Maybe there is no point in knowing everything. We have to allow ourselves to feel it.’ Sensual energy can heal us and make us stronger. At the moment, we are easy to lead: ‘they are leading us. If we become strong, we will destroy the system.’

IMG_1208As I had also encountered this mysterious ‘they’, and the ubiquitous ‘system’ in my discussion the previous day with Kwenda Lima himself, I felt compelled to stop Urska and ask: ‘who is the ‘they’? What is this ‘system’? Her response was quite clear. ‘The leaders.’ Visions of Tito and other strong leaders of the socialist era floated up in my memory. Are these socialist leaders or capitalist leaders, I asked. ‘These are those with money and ego. It’s a problem of all humans, not of socialism or capitalism per se.’ Yet a reassessment of life under socialist Yugoslavia and capitalist Slovenia shows this problem to be exacerbated in the capitalist present.

Urska went on to elaborate. ‘I was seven years old when the system changed. I remember the feeling I had then. We were more connected then [emphasis mine]. My parents were building a house and the whole village helped them. Nowadays, it’s all about paying each other to help each other. Then, people were together in the streets. Now, we are in the house. This is individualism. Its not about the country that we live in, or the nation that we are, we are all the same,’ she reads out from her notebook. ‘But in today’s Western world of capitalism and individualism, money and ego power, we are more and more disconnected with each other and ourselves.’

We need to find our souls to get over the ego, and it is here that kizomba can help. But this power of kizomba lies not merely in the dance as a formal activity: it is intimately linked to Urska’s awareness of kizomba’s African affiliations. ‘I feel Africa and people coming from that continent have a socialist impulse, transmitted through the generations. They live differently in relation to their environment.’ Even if this is a romantic fantasy, the feeling of ‘Africa’ transmitted through kizomba serves as solace and utopian hope to this citizen of the former ‘Yugosphere’.

2. From Belgrade to Tallinn: Feeling Africa

Nemanja Sonero is a kizomba dancer and teacher living in Tallinn, Estonia. I met him online on the many Facebook forums in which the origins, evolution, meaning, and music of kizomba are hotly debated. He and I were usually in agreement. We became friends, exchanging ideas through private messages, only meeting face to face at the first iKiz Kizomba Festival he organised— extremely successfully— at Tallinn this November. A tall Serbian man in a dashiki and retro glasses, he cut a striking figure. While dancing he was gentle and fun, able to close the ‘height gap’ between us with ease, and this was his attitude during conversation and interaction.

IMG_0406In his choreography with his dance partner, Laura, we saw a Finn and a Serbian, who met in Finland, dressed in ‘Afro-Tribal’ mode, dancing expertly and with passion Angolan semba (the precursor of kizomba, which has developed both in step with and independent of kizomba), enlivened with touches from belly dance (Laura is also an expert belly dance artiste). How did a Serbian come to ‘feel Africa’ while dancing in Tallinn? Nemanja and I finally found the time to have a morning coffee ‘together’ where we discussed his story through Facebook messenger.

The trigger for this conversation was a comment he had made ages ago to me— ‘we were dancing in the streets when there were bombs exploding all around us.’ In my understanding of the Bosnian War and its aftermath (the NATO bombing of Belgrade which was the crisis Nemanja had referred to) I had never spared a thought for the Serbian, who was equated in my mind with ‘perpetrator’ status. Here was my first contact with a Serbian who was far from the images I had held, and whose memories of the NATO bombing were connected closely with his memories of dance. Apart from dancing kizomba, Nemanja spoke English, Spanish, Portuguese, some Estonian and Russian, and his native Serbian…. Where in the story of a war-torn adolescence was there place for all this cosmopolitanism?

Let us imagine, in Belgrade in the late 1990s, a bored, hyperactive and highly intelligent high school kid, trapped between a difficult home life and an educational system that responds to abnormal social conditions by regimenting its students even more than is normal for school. As Nemanja recalls, ‘I just didn’t find school interesting, the whole system of repeating like a parrot.’ In his neighbourhood are young boys slipping into drugs and other criminal activities. Our protagonist’s brother, sensing this fate as a real possibility, introduces him to— capoeira.

Belgrade in the midst of the disintegrating Balkans, offering its youngsters capoeira: how come? It so happened that a British capoeirista was in Belgrade at that time, teaching capoeira for free in the ‘Angola’ style in a house for homeless and destitute children, including those of Roma stock. As with slaves on the sugar Plantation, where capoeira first developed as a means of resistance and physical and spiritual training under difficult conditions, so in the urban dystopia of Belgrade in 1998: capoeira was serving as an ad hoc social glue.

The young Nemanja, who was already skating, skateboarding, climbing trees, and listening to hip-hop, finally found in capoeira something challenging, fun, and new. ‘Capoeira gave me something to focus on, so I would not go to school, but go train.’ With his British teacher, he also practiced English, which he had already absorbed like a sponge through subtitled television programmes. In time, capoeira also opened the door to Portuguese, a language that he lives and breathes now as part of the Lusophone world of kizomba. When, because of the war, the teacher was forced to leave, it was Nemanja who took over his classes.

Again, as on the Plantation, so in Belgrade: from capoeira to couple dance was the next step. At that time, one of his female students took him to a Cuban bar, where he encountered Choma, a Cuban graphic designer who was offering Cuban style salsa classes. Nemanja was soon picking up Spanish as well, and learning about the orishas and Afro-Cuban percussive spirituality. The Cold War had ensured that there had been plenty of Cubans in communist Yugoslavia. They didn’t need a visa, Nemanja recalls. What is rather surreal nevertheless is the image of a Cuban holding salsa classes in a bar while Serbia was grappling with all kinds of social, economic and political effects of coming out of long war. The video below gives a general idea of the continuing popularity, in Belgrade, of the Cuban style of dancing salsa:

On the streets, in the meanwhile, people were selling pirated music on cassettes and later CDs. From these sellers and his friends, Nemanja expanded his music education, listening to reggae, Cuban music, what we call ‘world music’ in general, and even Angolan semba. His brother being an amateur computer enthusiast, they always had Internet at home, so, like Neo in the Matrix films, Nemanja reached out to the world through those early retro computers. He became ‘friends’ with Brazilians and African Americans online, journalists and teachers, who ‘helped me understand many things’: ‘the history of capoeira’, ‘reggae history, and Ethiopia, and slavery.’

Through ‘guerilla’ methods of accessing the wider world, this young man in Serbia was learning about the deeper histories of slavery and colonialism that connected the different kinetic and performative practices that he was increasingly drawn to. From his scattergun exposure to capoeira, reggae, hip-hop, percussion, salsa, the orishas arose a desire to join the dots through accessing information as well as physical expertise. Was he at all aware that all these forms were linked to the history of slavery and Black culture?

‘Not as I do now’, Nemanja reflected, ‘but very much, yes. And I always had a thing for folk traditional dances from Latin America and Africa… I always felt comfortable falling into that feeling of a trance or expressing myself with it.’ The next step then was to embrace kizomba. Already in the mid 2000s, friends in the Angolan embassy were lending him CDs and videos of semba music, while some of his dance friends were being exposed to the dance kizomba, during travels to Portugal. In the late 2000s, he invited a white Portuguese teacher of kizomba, Benjamin Nande, to the Serbian Salsa Congress, which he was organizing.

By the time Nemanja received his first invitation to teach salsa at the Vilnius Salsa Congress in 2008, kizomba was already in his dance repertoire. That first trip to Vilnius led to Nemanja’s eventual relocation to another Baltic country. ‘Somehow destiny and events took me to Estonia in the end. I liked it here, because it was calm and nice and no stress.’ Although a dance polyglot who ‘loved dance so much and the possibilities’ that he ‘wanted it all’, he realized that the life of a dance professional in Europe necessitated a self-presentation as a specialist of some kind.

Kizomba makes Nemanja ‘feel very comfortable and relaxed’. Teaching first at salsa festivals and events which had scope for kizomba, and then at exclusively kizomba events, while building up the kizomba scene in Estonia (culminating in the organization of his own kizomba festival in Tallinn this year), Nemanja is clear about what kizomba allows him to feel: ‘I love to feel my partner… to get close to my partner, and kizomba and tango give me that, and I feel this is what I need more.
But I will always do different dances, and always learn something new, that will never stop no matter what I do.’

True to his word, Nemanja is now dedicating himself to pole dancing. While it is probably impossible to establish an African-heritage basis to pole dancing, we can nevertheless see how the Black Atlantic expressive arts have been crucial for a young boy from the war-torn Balkans to become a cosmopolitan man of the world. But it is too simplistic to draw stark distinctions between Serbia in the shadow of bombing, the peaceful Baltic region where he now lives, and indeed Angola where kizomba came together as a dance. All these regions were deeply impacted by the Cold War, and the same Cold War produced its own cosmopolitanism in which Serbia, too, participated.

'no worries': healing the split self. Nemanja teaching at his festival, iKiz, November 2015.  Photo from the iKiz Festival Facebook page.
‘no worries’: healing the split self. Nemanja teaching at his festival, iKiz, November 2015.
Photo from the iKiz Festival Facebook page.

It is more worthwhile to consider African dance and movement forms as allowing someone like Nemanja to channel back into himself the best of Serbian society— what he remembers as ‘not only its messed-up history and war and violence, but a really wonderful place and people, even in those hard times’. Different kinds of ‘African heritage’ dance passed through his body over time to be assimilated into and to expand his kinetic vocabulary. Their swag, their style, and their very different energies– from the explosiveness of hip-hop to the meditative possibilities of kizomba, have sent him healing messages at different stages of his life.

3. Budapest, Stockholm: Moving into Mindfulness

In August 2015, I visited the Budapest Kizomba Connection, a festival now in its fifth year and organized by the superbly capable Nikolett Hamvas, a Hungarian woman who lives in Lisbon, speaks Portuguese, and appreciates Angolan and PALOP culture as her own. This year, the festival took place on the cruise ship ‘Europa’ moored on the Danube. On Saturday night it slowly cruised under the romantic bridges of this grand Central European city. Beautifully lit buildings floated past. Dressed in white, bathed by the full moon, we reconnected to the elements through kizomba. (see this story’s featured image). ‘Africa’ was reconfiguring ‘Europa’.

IMG_1409At BKC I enjoyed reabsorbing the energies of kizomba into my body and mind. I was learning to change the temporality of my enjoyment (of everything) and kizomba was part of the journey. I was content to watch the dancers whose style I appreciated rather than rush to ask them for a dance. This was how I spotted on the dance floor a young man, slender, pale and dark haired in a Mediterranean kind of way, with his name emblazoned down his trouser legs: ‘Ronie Saleh’. His style mesmerized me.

photo courtesy Ronie Saleh
photo courtesy Ronie Saleh

This style was not the kizomba that the Angolans and PALOP people first brought to Europe and which is danced alongside the more upbeat, playful style ‘semba’; but neither was it purely one of the newer styles developing from kizomba that have proliferated in France in the past five years, the most recent of which is being called ‘urban kiz’. BKC was a bit of a battleground between the so-called ‘urban kiz’ styles and the so-called ‘traditional kizomba’ styles– in keeping with debates raging through the kizomba world about the meaning, movements, mood, and music that are appropriate to this dance and its developments.

Despite those debates and differences, the same dialectic between war and peace, between violence and its overcoming, that brought forth kizomba, and that we have been exploring through my previous protagonists, also gave rise to a dancer who appears to veer towards urban kiz. In 1990, when he was but a year old, Ronie’s parents escaped the war in Iraq and arrived in Sweden. Growing up in a secular Muslim household, the young boy thrived on the opportunities Sweden offered: theatre, singing, writing music and playing the guitar, and the usual set of Black Atlantic urban dances: hip-hop, breakdance, popping. He performed on stage and regularly won dance and music competitions.

Perhaps it was this confidence that allowed him to overcome something that could have been an impediment in his encounter with the world: the stutter he had as a child, and his long experience with speech therapists. But—in a positive and farsighted move– Ronie decided to ‘work with something that I know myself how it feels,’ eventually obtaining a Masters degree in Speech and Language Pathology. Around the same time, something new entered his life: he started to dance foxtrot and ‘got hooked right away’, because ‘the connection and feeling was amazing.’ An interest in feeling and connection thus underlay both his choice of subject for study and his new dance.

It’s not at all uncommon for dancers in search of connection to switch from the sharp and dexterous moves of Black Atlantic urban dances to couple dances like salsa and kizomba. But I had never come across a narrative in which foxtrot featured as the couple dance of choice. Indeed, I knew little about foxtrot beyond a basic awareness that, like the charleston and lindy hop, it was one of the classic swing dances of New York. When, under Ronie’s guidance, I watched some foxtrot videos, I realized that it has been evolving along lines similar to others from the swing family, most obviously West Coast swing; moreover, the path towards ‘foxtrot nuevo’ and ‘dirty fox’ discernible from the titles of youTube videos recalls parallel developments in tango.

At a foxtrot workshop Ronie attended in November 2013, a kizomba song was played during the break. Drawn to the ‘enchanting’ music, he also responded to a similarity of feeling between foxtrot and kizomba. Foxtrot, Ronie explains, ‘is all about body connection and flow on the surface of the dance floor’. Unlike salsa, and like kizomba and tango, this connection is ensured by upper body contact between partners. Interestingly, one of the divergences between urban kiz and kizomba is the diminishing of that upper body contact. Ronie’s retention of this connection, a direct legacy from foxtrot, alongside footwork developed in Paris rather than Angola, is one of the ingredients of what we started calling (only half in jest), ‘Ronie style’.

To this emphasis on connection, Ronie adds a playfulness he inherits from his love of hip-hop and popping. This tendency is apparent in most visually arresting kizomba dancers—from the Panamanian Albir (one of Ronie’s earliest inspirations), who is renowned for his use of hip-hop moves, to the Angolan Morenasso who, based in Paris from 2010, has been one of the earliest propagators of kizomba and semba internationally and whose dance style flamboyantly draws on the Angolan urban dance kuduro. What stands out as ‘Ronie style’ is the mix of body connection, street dance playfulness, basic steps taken from both the ‘Paris styles’ and kizomba, and, most importantly, meaningful variations of time and energy.

‘I like to make contrast in how I dance with my partners, as you notice in my videos,’ clarifies Ronie; ‘some videos are mainly slow motion and peaceful and others have a lot of attitude and firm moves, playing with time, closeness and space—but I always let connection be the main attribute of my dance style.’ These contrasts are a continuation of syncopation, one of the most resilient and recognizable signifiers of Africanity in music and dance. It is another kinetic inheritance from slavery: syncopation was the slave’s mode to overcome ‘Plantation time’ and tease out alternative temporalities for resistance through the body. Ronie’s ability to slow down to an extreme the tempo of the dance highlights the contrast with faster syncopations.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMoihM-KRz4

These variations are further enhanced by Ronie’s sensitivity to a deeper difference between foxtrot and kizomba: ‘the feeling and how you walk and put down your steps along the floor. In Kizomba you walk with the energy downward—connection with mother earth. In foxtrot you are more on the surface of the floor.’ ‘It took me a while to get the kizomba movements in my walking (cause I was too much gliding on the floor instead of walking downwards)’, remembers Ronie, ‘and still some foxtrot dancers tells me that they can’t see the difference between my foxtrot and kizomba, but that’s maybe what makes my style bit unique.’ It’s the contrast in energies as much as their coalescence, together with the slowing down of time, which allows him to draw new possibilities out of kizomba.

The overall effect is reminiscent of the body’s mastery over its environment that is the forte of Asian martial arts. Although ‘not religious’, Ronie ‘has been meditating for eight years’, and sees his beliefs as ‘more headed to Buddhism and Mindfulness.’ Like a number of kizomba dancers he has grasped kizomba’s potential to approximate the meditative possibilities that Asian embodied philosophies access and refine. Kwenda Lima’s ‘kaizen dance’ and ‘bodhi kizomba’ has been pioneering in this respect. It is no coincidence that I experienced Kwenda’s unique classes with both Urska and Ronie, who recalls ‘crying with the impact’ of Kwenda’s kaizen workshop on the top of the Europa’s sun deck that blazing hot Budapest afternoon.

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=927276304017346&video_source=pages_finch_thumbnail_video&theater

Like Kwenda, Ronie synthesizes fragments of the sacred dispersed across the (post)secular world to explicate connection through dance. He turns to the four elements ‘Fire, Water, Air and Earth’ and their attributes: fire’s being ‘firm and sharp movements’; air’s, the ‘flow’; earth’s, the connection created by the body’s downward direction of energy; and water’s, ‘patience’ (‘just imagine how it is to walk in water’, he asks me). This verbalization of a dance style, itself a creolized product with African and European influences, combines ancient Greek philosophy and Asian ideas of energy flow. ‘If we can vary the way our souls move our bodies in accordance with life (the four elements), then we can share a deeper and more three-dimensional experience with our dance partners. The way we dance will not feel like separated steps anymore – all the “Steps” become ONE energy– we`re floating.’

Photo courtesy Ronie Saleh
Photo courtesy Ronie Saleh

Ronie has been dancing kizomba ‘non-stop’ during the past two years, teaching since August 2014 in Stockholm’s biggest dance school, and, a year later he quit his job as Speech Language Therapist to devote himself full-time to dance. He says with a faint air of disbelief, ‘I’m now travelling all over the world sharing what I love the most, to make this world to a better and happier place.’ Apart from giving weekend workshops and teaching at festivals, he still teaches foxtrot (with a kizomba touch), which now has become really popular in Scandinavia. From Iraq to Stockholm and from Stockholm to all over the world, kizomba and foxtrot and hip-hop and popping comes together in this dancer’s body and mind, to reaffirm the salience of the Black Atlantic as a kinetic philosophy but also reconfigure it as a world resource.

Concluding Speculations

The ways in which different kinetic strands of the Black Atlantic, floating away from each other in the tailwinds of history, unite in his and the other two stories I have told here, move the debate over cultural appropriation of Black expressive forms towards considerations of kinetic sharing and the body’s hospitality towards dance and music traditions that are not ‘meant to be our own’. These stories of individuals from the margins of Europe and beyond, take us to a world beyond the binary of ‘black’ and ‘white’, and make us think harder about who is allowed to take what from whom in the remaking of the self that modernity invariably seems to demand, no matter where we are born and where we grew up.

Kizomba alfresco on the banks of the Seine, Paris.
Kizomba alfresco on the banks of the Seine, Paris.

I started this Moving Story by a recollection of dancing kizomba through the recent attacks in Paris, and I want to return to that scenario by wondering what would have been the conditions under which the young terrorists would have taken up kizomba in the suburbs of Paris, where urban kiz first came together, instead of guns and body explosives. We can’t just point to social marginalisation, religious beliefs, skin colour, and collective trauma as explanations. Some young men and women across Europe have turned to dance to heal, others have not. Trying to work out why (in both cases) means taking far more seriously than ever dances like kizomba and their deeper connection with war, peace, and our global modernity.

kizomba on the boat 'Nix Nox', Seine, Paris
kizomba on the boat ‘Nix Nox’, Seine, Paris

All photos by Ananya Kabir unless otherwise specified.

A heartfelt thank you to Urska, Nemanja, and Ronie! Gratitude always to Kwenda Lima for opening the pathways of consciousness. A special merci also to Henri Lee and Domino Ancete.
Thank you to Nemanja and Nikolett for such hospitality at their festivals; Vedrana ‘Dottoressa’ and Darinka Chebella for talking to me about dance and the ‘Yugosphere’ in Ljubljana; to my ‘Kaizen family’ for all that we learnt together on the Danube; and to a partner who shall remain unnamed- for being the key that unlocked the secrets of kizomba.

Finally, to Brenna Daldorph, who initiated me into kizomba in Paris, a massive thank you for being there from the start of this particular ‘never-ending story’

News

Modern Moves returns to Benin- with Magna Gopal

After a successful year of collaborations with the Benin International Salsa Festival, Modern Moves is all set to return to the Festival’s third edition (27th-30th January 2016). We are thrilled to facilitate the participation of our Advisory Board member, world-renowned salsa dancer Magna Gopal as the Festival’s Guest of Honour this year. Apart from giving classes focusing on the techniques and philosophy of connection in salsa, Magna will immerse herself in traditional Beninese dance, with a view to extending her repertoire. It will be her first time in West Africa and, as she says, ‘I can’t wait!’ This is an cross-cultural experiment curated by us which extends the work we started at our pioneering event Afro-Latin-Africa involving Festival organiser and dancer Steve Lokonon, Beninese singer Laurent Hounsavi, and London’s best Cuban musicians including Rey Crespo, Nana Aldrin, Oscar Martinez and Emeris Solis. Modern Moves director Ananya Kabir and postdoctoral researcher Elina Djebbari had a wonderful time in Cotonou in February 2015. We look forward to introducing Magna to the historical, spiritual and cultural riches of Benin as well as the exhilaration of the Festival which brings together dancers from all over West Africa and beyond.

The International Salsa Festival announces Magna Gopal's participation
The International Salsa Festival announces Magna Gopal’s participation
The Moving Blog

POEMA DO SEMBA: by Livia Jimenez Sedano

2 entering downstairs
Entering downstairs

Since December 2014, Poema do Semba is more than the beautiful song with which Paulo Flores has made us dream, think, sing and dance. Now it is also the name of a restaurant that the poet opened in Lisbon in which food, music, visual art and poetry come all together to introduce the guest in the poetic universe of semba. In Paulo Flores´ words, the concept goes beyond the idea of a restaurant: it is a place for honouring Angolan social memory, a meeting point and a place for celebrating Angolan culture. The name was chosen as a tribute to Angolan people: semba is not only a musical genre and a dance style, but also the force that united people in colonial times. It was the material on which the nation was forged before independence (Moorman, 2008), and a musical genre that has been able to survive the hardest times and come alive with pride and force, just like Angolan citizens. Flores’s Poema do Semba now finds itself at Avenida Dom Carlos I, 140, a few steps from the emblematic Assambleia da República.

3 general view 1
General View
4 general view 2
General view

Once we cross the main door, the first thing that makes us enter a magic space is the decoration created by the Luso-Angolan artist Maria João Carlos Gril: fragments of poems flow through sinuous lines that create an organic space that seems to be moving, evoking the roots of a tree that embraces the groups of people sitting on the tables. If we look down from above it has the shape of a big flower. In a soft warm light, we are invited to sit down and abandon ourselves to the universe of semba.

Detail of decoration with poetry
Detail of decoration with poetry

Looking around, we discover exhibited beautiful pictures in black and white of Angolan scenes. These are the works of Angolan photographers: for example, Cassiano Bamba is the author of a big mosaic with the photos of Paulo Flores last album´s cover “O pais que nasceu meu pai” (“The country in which my father was born”), in which we can see scenes of everyday life in Luanda in the nineties; we can also enjoy the work of Zé Pinto with the beautiful image they call “Adam and Eve” and the work of Sergio Afonso, among others. Paulo Flores´ idea is to changing these exhibited photos every year in order to show the work of diverse artists. All the senses are involved, therefore, in this amazing experience of semba.

Mosaic of pictures by Cassiano Bamba
Mosaic of pictures by Cassiano Bamba

Once semba has conquered us through the sight and the sensual tactility of the space, the next senses to be delighted are those of taste and smell: the moment to make the dinner choice has arrived. In the menu we can find traditional Angolan cuisine, but also a tropical mixture with foods and drinks from other parts of the Lusophone world, such as Brazil, Goa and Portugal. For those who are not used to complex flavours, there is also a variety of grilled meats and fishes. When asked for recommendations on what to choose, Paulo Flores finds it difficult to make a selection, but he tells us that we should not miss traditional Angolan dishes such as the moamba ginguba, moamba antiga, calulú de peixe, or moqueca de camarão. One of the specialities of the house is the feijão de óleo de palma (beans with palm oil). Let´s explore a few of these flavours before live music starts.

The Menu
The Menu

It is suggested to us to start first with a cocktail, being the most typical the caipirinha de mucúa. The mucúa, a fruit that is raised in West Africa, is the perfect way of entering this a new world of flavours. It is served with a snack called madioca laminada frita (fried sliced cassava). Another really nice option is the daiquiri de mucúa.

Caipirinha de mucua with mandioca laminada frita
Caipirinha de mucua with mandioca laminada frita
Daiquiri de mucua
Daiquiri de mucua

Some of the specialities of the house are the traditional Angolan dishes not to miss: for those who like fish, two delicious options are the Mezongué and the Calulú de peixe. Mezongué is a dish of fish (curvina) with feijão de óleo de palma (beans palm oil), mandioca (cassava), sweet potato, and corn flour with palm oil. The Calulú de peixe (just excellent!) is a dish of fish cooked with lemon and served with funge (a well-known consistent and delicious side dish made of farinha de mandioca) and with the essential feijão de óleo de palma, everything to be accompanied with the popular hot sauce piri-piri (also called jindungu caombo). The muqueca de camarão (a special dish made of prawns) is also great!

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Mezongue
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Calulu de peixe
Muqueca de camarao
Muqueca de camarao

For meat lovers, the essential is the Angolan moamba in all its varieties. For example, the Moamba ginguba is made of galhina rija (chicken), served with quiabos (gherkins), molho de ginguba (almond sauce) and funge to accompany. As a dessert, we could not resist trying the mucúa cheesecake (made of the mucúa fruit): absolutely delicious. Apart from these suggestions, there is a whole world of tastes to explore…

Moamba jinguba
Moamba jinguba
Cheesecake de mucua
Cheesecake de mucua

During the dinner Angolan music invades the space softly, but when the moment of live music arrives around 22:15 the ambience is definitely converted into something extraordinary. The sweet and wonderful voice of Paulo Flores distils the poetry of semba and other music styles. He announces that he is going to play uma sembinha antiga (an old semba), “Maria Provocação”. Everyone claps and sing along, from the businessmen that have stopped in Lisbon that night in their way to Angola, to the famous football player of Benfica who is enjoying dinner with his family in another table. The mood is magic and contagious. He sings a varied repertoire that combines all songs “that my grandfather used to sing when he was like me”, as Paulo Flores says, with recent hits from his last album “O pais que nasceu meu pai”. Every once in a while, there is a couple who cannot resist staying quiet with these rhythms and who start dancing. Some children that roam around and get close to the stage, as well as the jokes and informal exchanges between the artists and the clients make the event look like a backyard family party (festa do quintal) at some moments. In this intimate ambience, Paulo is accompanied by his young son Kairi Flores, who has an astonishing capacity for playing the percussion, and the brilliant musician Ciro Bertini on the accordion and the flute.

Paulo Flores with his son Kairi Flores and Ciro Bertini
Paulo Flores with his son Kairi Flores and Ciro Bertini

After the first part of the live music night finishes, we have some time to concentrate and enjoy the dinner. But we are not aware of the surprises that are waiting for all of us in the second part. It has been just an introduction to a long night of surprises. Once the second part starts, the first surprise is for Kairi, Paulo´s son: he has just turned 13 years old and one of the employees comes in the stage with an anniversary cake with candles, while all of us sing along “Parabens a você” (Happy birthday to you).

Birthday cake for Kairi Flores
Birthday cake for Kairi Flores
Kiari Flores' smile
Kiari Flores’ smile

A bit later, someone from the neighbouring table stands up and approaches the stage: he is Yuri da Cunha, one of the most famous Angolan singers and most appreciated in Lisbon. He makes some jokes, takes the microphone, and finally he jumps on the stage to join the other artists. The deep and melodic voice of Yuri da Cunha invades the place, not only with Angolan styles but also with Congolese ones. Paulo introduces Constantino, a young talented artist who leaves all of us impressed with his quality of voice and his virtuosity with the guitar.

Yuri da Cunha improvising from the table area
Yuri da Cunha improvising from the table area
Constantino and Yuri da Cunha
Constantino and Yuri da Cunha

Afterwards, Yuri da Cunha accompanies Paulo in some hits they have already played together, and delights us with his last hit that everyone is singing in Lisbon: “Gago” (stammering), the story of a man who was left stammering because of his love for a woman. He stammers as a joke and as a vocal technique for making rhythmic rap-like patterns in the song. The ambience reaches a climax in this amazing second part and leaves everyone with the memory of an unrepeatable night of semba.

Poema do Semba is opened every day from 20:00 until 02:00 except from Mondays, the only day that it´s closed. During the weekend, the restaurant is open also for lunch. There is live music every night: if you go on Friday or Saturday, you will probably find the resident band of the house, playing a repertoire of the Angolan music of the sixties and seventies.

Lola Mutemba and resident band
Lola Mutemba and resident band

Paulo Flores can be found on Thursdays and sometimes on Sundays too. In any case, whenever you go you may find a surprise, like the unexpected live intimate concert by Yuri Da Cunha and Constantino. The best-known Angolan artists like Puto Português or Manecas Costa may appear and jump on stage at any moment in the middle of dinner. After all, Semba is also about improvisation…

 

Livia Jiménez Sedano is member of INET-MD (Instituto de Etnomusicologia-Centro de Estudos em Música e Danca) and her work is being funded by FCT (Fundação para a Ciencia e Tecnologia) of Portugal. She is a collaborator of Modern Moves Project since 2014.

 

References:

Moorman, Marissa (2008) Intonations. A Social History of Music and Nation in Luanda, Angola, from 1945 to Recent Times. Athens: Ohio University Press.

Other Events

Afro-Latin-Africa: Crossings Between Cuba and Benin – 29th September 2015

On the 29th September 2015, Modern Moves celebrated the successful completion of our second year of research, and the start of the new academic year with a spectacular group of very special guests from Benin, Paris, Cuba, and London, at a one-of-a-kind event showcasing the movement of music, dance, history and memory between the Caribbean and West Africa.

Full report by our associate researcher Minkyoung ‘MK’ Kim

Salsa: the link between Africa – Latin America – Africa

Modern Moves for me is how my salsa-self found its motherland, AFRICA. And this is a story of how Modern Moves redefined post-colonialism and trans-Atlantic relationships through the way Africa speaks the language of salsa.

Despite my broken toe, I danced all night to DJ Willy Viper’s set at Modern Moves’ very first launch party in May 2014 in our special room – the Anatomy Museum at King’s College. Professor Gladys Francis, one of the guests Modern Moves had hosted at that event, who is originally from Guadeloupe, said to me, “I didn’t even notice you were Asian, you dance like it’s your dance,” after I had told her that I am Korean. Her comment made me wonder, who am I then? Where do I belong?

My salsa journey that initially began in Buffalo was always very closely associated with Latin America. I have learned about salsa culture and its associated mindset in the west side of Buffalo, where the demographic is predominantly Latino, and the Bronx, where I traveled to often. Salsa was, and is, a lifestyle in both those places. Latin music was played on the streets and at family gatherings where kids ran around, and adults danced and shared drinks and food. Well known salsa musicians and bands like Oscar De Leon, Frankie Ruiz Jr, Tony Vega, and Spanish Harlem Orchestra came to perform at street fairs and local festivals. Working closely with Buffalo’s Hispanic Heritage Council, I was also heavily involved with the local Hispanic community by teaching salsa at the Latin American Cultural Center, walking and performing at the Puerto Rican parade every year and being honored with the certificate of appreciation during Hispanic heritage month by the NY equality program. Latin culture, through salsa, was who I was.

While digesting Gladys’ comment to the background of DJ Viper mixing, something unbelievable happened. I suddenly felt “Africa” in my heart. Through the progression DJ Viper was making in his set, which was a mixture of salsa, merengue, bachata, French zouk, and some Afro beat, there was Africa. Salsa was from Africa. It may have come to my life through Latin America and formed in the way we know it today through the land of Latin America, but there was Africa in its roots. There, Modern Moves and DJ Viper taught me where I am from and its history. That day changed the way I viewed salsa – and the continent of Africa – entirely.

That indeed is what Modern Moves is about: Kinetic Transnationalism and Afro-Diasporic Rhythm Cultures, which nailed the research purpose to make this point from Day 1, and continues to do so at its subsequent events- many of which I have been able to attend and participate in.

On the 29th of September 2015, Modern Moves invited Beninese salsa singer Laurent Hounsavi and Beninese salsa festival organiser and dancer Steve Deogratias Lokonon, to restate this connection between Africa and Latin America. The event consisted of several parts- an opening dance performance by Steve, a live concert, facilitated by musician and SOAS doctoral student Hannah Bates, where London’s best Cuban musicians backed Laurent through an interpretation of his songs, DJ sets by John Armstrong, and a discussion of Modern Moves’ research on Cuba-Africa links led by Hannah. During this discussion, Ananya Kabir, the director of Modern Moves, and Modern Moves postdoctoral researcher Elina Djebbari, could reveal to the audience the ways in which Ananya’s research on salsa and what she calls ‘the movements of memory’, and Elina’s research on the relationship between Cuba and Africa through music and dance in the framework of the Cold War, came together within their research trip to Cotonou, Benin, in February 2015. It was during this visit that the relationship between Modern Moves, Laurent and Steve was forged.

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According to Elina, there are very few written documents pertaining to people traveling between Africa and Cuba in the modern period, but certainly a wealth of oral accounts and memories. However, Modern Moves is about dance and music that is not only documented in the written text but also preserved through the dance moves handed down through generations as a transformational art form. Through the transformation of dance and music that have traveled across the Atlantic from Africa to Latin America and back to Africa for centuries, we are able to understand the narrative of the history of colonialism, slavery, and postcolonialism.

Steve got on the stage in his white outfit and hat. His Beninese interpretation of salsa music and dance was absolutely fascinating. There was a part where his movements resembled to the Afro Cuban moves that we are used to. They were different, his legs bent to the ground to the beats but his arms were extraordinarily flowy from his finger tips to the shoulders and through his whole upper body, yet subtle.

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He also explained later that the movements resemble Cuban moves yet they are particular to Benin dance traditions, which he moreover interpreted to convey how slaves cultivated the earth. His moves demonstrated the world in which slaves were suffering and translated into: walking and working. His moves were also communicating with the ‘revenant’– the powerful ancestor who comes back from the dead to bring messages important for our life. At the same time, at certain moments, he incorporated the “on2 step” of New York style salsa through a smooth transition from the Beninese movements, adding further to his interpretation of the song—a salsa song sung in the West African languages Fon and Peul by Benin’s famous Orchestre Black Santiago. Thus, his dance and interpretation not only represented Beninese dance but also the New York on2 style that was developed from the 1960s onwards together with the Latin jazz and music industry in NYC. Steve made the ancestors and the survivors from our colonialism and transatlantic movements to speak to each other through his interpretation.

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Finally, Laurent Hounsavi made his entrance with an eight-piece band that Hannah Bates, a London based montuno player who lived in Cuba for 2 years, organised.

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They had some intense rehearsals after the arrival of Laurent from Paris just two days before the event, but skype and email communications through the summer had produced a sheaf of musical transcriptions by Hannah, which were then arranged for the concert by the master musician Rey Crespo.

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Laurent performed several songs from his repertoire, many of which Ananya and Elina had already enjoyed listening to and dancing to at the Benin International Salsa Festival in February. The moment that stood out the most for me was the bachata song ‘porque sufrir’ (why suffer) that he sang in a duet with the female vocalist Nana Clara Aldrin-Quaye, who was originally from Ghana, but had been brought up in Spain and Cuba, and lived in London at the moment. She herself is a diasporic wanderer who travels the paths that this complex history between Cuba and Africa provides. The moment they were in the duet together created another transnational and transatlantic linkage.

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And Brook, one of the people in the audience standing next to me, played percussion using his steel watch and a glass from which he had drunk a Mojito provided by King’s College catering. All night long, in different ways, Laurent, Steve, the Latin band members, and the guests were creating linkages between time and space through salsa.

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As the party ended with a set by John Armstrong, and the musicians, guests, and the Modern Moves team were wrapping up, one of the sound technicians who had helped us all night walked up to Laurent. He asked, “Earlier, did you sing in Yoruba?” Laurent smiled and said, “I don’t speak Yoruba but my mom does, so I asked her to translate.” The sound technician said, “I am Nigerian, so I speak Yoruba. It was very nice.” [1]

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Here, salsa dance that is interpreted in the African context and the music that Laurent creates are both the medium and the outcome of the complex transatlantic history and postcolonialism that influences the dance. They represent the migrations and struggle we have gone through in the past, and at the same time celebrate the triumph over colonialism. Through Modern Moves, by bringing international talents that are linked with each other, and showing us how we are connected through Africa, we are not only illuminating the history that was untold, but also reproducing another branch of salsa evolution for anyone who attended the event, and letting the world know about Africa’s re-interpretation of salsa as part of its acknowledgement of the diasporas and traumas caused by slavery.

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Salsa music was developed through the movements of people whose livelihood mattered. Africans were being shipped to another continent for labor exploitation; later, Latin Americans were moving to another continent for better jobs. And the music and dance were their ways to maintain and express their identity. At an event like this, where academics, musicians and dancers collaborate to explicitly reveal new movements and interpretations of who we are and who we become, we understand how important “we” becomes in this grand context of history. In keeping with this continuous intervention and participation in history, Modern Moves is now taking Magna Gopal, another transnational on2 salsa artist, who is Indian-Canadian and living in New York, to the third edition of the Benin International Salsa Festival next January, to initiate more explorations of the linkages between different ways in which we reproduce and interpret our complex history in time and space through salsa. Stay tuned.

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[1] The salsa song is called “Fesso Djaye,” which means “Enjoy life smoothly,” and is about love. It isn’t recorded yet.

All photos courtesy Elina Djebbari

Moving Conversations

Moving Conversation #4: Benjamin Lebrave and Jesse Weaver Shipley

Modern Moves flagged off the second year of Moving Conversations with a West Africa feast! On Friday, 27th of November, we hosted a spectacular public talk with BENJAMIN LEBRAVE, DJ, Prolific commentator on African electronic music, music producer, talent hunter, and founder of Akwaaba Music, Accra, Ghana (http://www.akwaabamusic.com/) and JESSE SHIPLEY, Associate Professor of Anthropology at Haverford College, USA, specialist on Ghanaian popular music and dance, and the author of the highly readable and eye-opening book, ‘Living the Hiplife: Celebrity and Entrepreneurship in Ghanaian Popular Music (Duke University Press 2013). And here is the link to his new book!
http://www.amazon.com/Trickster-Theatre-Poetics-Expressive-Cultures/dp/0253016533

We were also happy to follow the conversation with a live performance by newest Afro-beat and Afro-Jazz sensation, ADEDEJI ADETAYO and his band, who were touring Europe throughout November promoting his new album, ‘A-Free-Ka-Nism’!

Our encyclopaediac DJ JOHN ARMSTRONG brought along the best of his Afrobeat and High Life collection, and we prevailed on our speaker Benjamin LeBrave to take a turn at the decks too to balance the retro with the electro in his DJ avatar of BBRAVE.

Along with music, dance, and conversation, we brought back our customised menu of West African themed canapes and Daiquiris.

Food, drink, conversation, music, dance– all for free in the heart of London. What more could you have asked for? Fabulous moves and movement can be seen in our album, click here!

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Our co-researcher, Alice Aterianus-Owanga wrote up some illuminating observations: do read below. In the meantime, make sure to turn up for our next Moving Conversation on the 8th of February, with a Brazil-based theme!

Moving Conversation #4 – Jesse Weaver Shipley and Benjamin Lebrave

27th of November 2015, King’s College London

Report by Alice Aterianus-Owanga

On 27 November 2105, a new event organised by “Modern Moves” proved that heuristic encounters between art and social sciences can take place if scholars are able to transform and open the places and forms where their knowledge is produced and shared. Continuing on a longer tradition of interactions between the fields of art and academy1 (Becker, 2007), the scholars working on this project about afro-diasporic dance cultures and kinetic transnationalism try through their “moving conversations” to employ original ways to think about social representations and cultures, focusing on the practices, the bodies and the performance, and bringing face to face in a real conversation the scholars and the artist stakeholders.

Indeed, the very form of the ‘moving conversations’ proposed by Modern Moves strongly contributes to the attempt to create new dialogues between social sciences, social actors and audiences: at the heart of one of the most famous institutions of the British and European academy – King’s College London-, these events gather each time a scholar and an art producer for a two hour long ‘conversation’, about their routes, experiences, knowledge and visions, and finally, quite often, for an informal dance performance on the dance-floor with the audience. In doing so, this public dialogue creates a groundbreaking space of confrontation, discussion and embodiment of diverse perspectives on music and dance practices.

The fourth edition of these Moving Conversations took place on 27 November 2015 at the usual venue- King’s College London’s Anatomy Museum. To open the second year of the Modern Moves project, the conversation was devoted to a tremendous musical and dancing movement that connects West African cities and African diasporas: African hip-hop and electronic pop music. Present on the dais, accordingly, were two experts of African hip-hop, and more precisely of the form of music called ‘Ghanaian hiplife’.

The first, Jesse Shipley, is an anthropologist who has been studying Ghanaian cultures for the last fifteen years. He has published a major book about hiplife music in Ghana,2 and he has followed multi-sited networks of Ghanaian artists between Accra, London and New York. Associate professor of Anthropology at Haverford College, he is also a filmmaker, author of several papers in scientific journals and critical medias, and obviously an extremely active scholar involved for the knowledge of African and black cultures.

The second guest of this conversation is also a cosmopolitan figure, travelling in Ghana and the rest of Africa in order to learn more about Black popular musical production. Benjamin Lebrave is a DJ, producer, ‘chameleon music-loving traveller’ and business developer, who graduated from ENSAE in Paris. His multiple skills, his passion for Africa and his understanding that African popular music was almost absent or not available in Europe or western markets all drove him to create the website Akwaaba, that is dedicated to offering ‘a window onto the wide diversity of music being created all over the continent’ and to distribute African tunes.3 Benjamin’s aim to promote African musical diversity goes along with the strong intention to work in a fair, transparent and ethical way with the artists.

The meeting of these two people, whose routes are connected at many levels, represented without any doubts a fantastic means to talk about the transnational identifications of Ghanaian and African diasporas through dance and music practices. The event obviously matched the expectations, both for the members of the audience who were experts on these issues, and for all the spectators who were freshly discovering the vast and exciting topic of hiplife, azonto, and the identity politics of urban music and dance developing between Accra and the Ghanaian diaspora.

The event was opened by a dance performance from a member of the National Dance Company of Ghana, Rebecca. Under Benjamin Lebrave’s musical selection of highlife and hiplife rhythms, she offered the audience an opening set of a ‘traditional’ dance that used to be very popular in Ghana in the 1960s, before performing a series of azonto dance movements, inviting even a young women of the audience to accompany her for a short duet. Azonto is a dance invented during the 2000s between Ghana and the diaspora, based on humorous movements miming ordinary actions (for example, boxing).

After this short dance presentation, Ananya Jahanara Kabir – director of the ERC project Modern Moves- proposed a quick introduction to the event, explaining that the aim of this moment was to create a conversation between the world of social dance and music, and the world of academia, before inviting the two guests on stage.

Jesse Shipley immediately took the floor and announced the plan for the conversation. He explained that the intention was clearly to address the issues of ‘political subjectivity’ and politics in music or dance practices, and to describe the manner that Ghanaians have imagined the world through music and dance since the independence. After he briefly presented his work as a scholar, Benjamin Lebrave introduced to the audience his distribution company Akwaaba and the different activities that allow him to ‘live and breathe this contemporary African music’.

Following the historical chronology, the speakers first introduced the audience to highlife rhythms that had functioned as the original soundtrack of independence and access to ‘modernity’ in decolonising Ghana. Our contributors arrived then at the emergence of hiplife, a musical genre created by the youth during the 1990s, thanks to their inspiration by both hip-hop sounds and their highlife heritage, and thanks to their circulations abroad. Jesse and Benjamin highlighted the huge importance of new digital technologies, capitalist values, and transnational mobilities for the development of new economic markets and new musical or dancing genres in Ghana and the diaspora. Indeed, hiplife has succeeded to be at the same time a national emblem and a sound for the Ghanaian diaspora abroad.

The conversation was punctuated by many video extracts, including dance videos produced by Ghanaian or African migrants in England, such as the memorable video shot in the London underground and at fast food restaurants and revealing a virtuous duo of azonto dancers.4 Thanks to unofficial videos travelling freely on youTube and social networks, these artists and dancers ‘create possibilities to move and occupy space’ in their host countries. Through the expressive and humorous power of azonto, they offer a visibility to migrant minorities in European cities and while contributing to produce a transnational definition of what being ‘African’ or ‘Ghanaian’ actually means.

Continuing the travel through Ghanaian musical history, the speakers described the emergence of a new dance form that has supplied the ephemeral movement of azonto: the akayida dance, that is still very humorous, but on a slower tempo than azonto. The conversation thus succeeded in showcasing the ceaseless process of reinvention that animates popular cultures and dances. The speakers also addressed the gender issues raised by these musical practices, that tend to focus on the figure of a male consumer, and they finally defended that these artists were never just copying the United States’ music, highlighting instead how their roots lay in many others local and global sources, outside of MTV’s standards and norms.

The conversation became even more interesting – for the people quite familiar with the topic of hiplife or hip-hop in Africa- when our contributors really tackled the backstage of their practices and their own involvement in these worlds, for example when Benjamin Lebrave shared his experience as a travelling DJ invited by many European and Afro-diasporic clubs. He proposed video extracts of what really happens when the DJ spreads his music to the audience, in terms of identification, transcultural connections and kinetic transnationalism, for example when he plays Koffi Olomide’s sounds in an Afro-diasporic party in Germany and when the audience gets hysterical on stage. For Benjamin, these Afro-pop sounds allow for going beyond frontiers of ‘diaspora’ and national boundaries, because ‘it is just excellent pop music’ that makes everyone gather around changing hybrid dance movements The few anecdotes of that kind made the audience really eager to know more about this original experience as a cosmopolitan DJ, and it partly foreshadowed what was going to happen later on in the evening.

The very heterogeneous audience asked a series of questions about the main issues underlying the conference, such as the idea of the ‘authenticity’ of these practices. The discussion focused also on the question of the part of the state in the emergence of new transnational genres and musical economies, about race and gender issues, and about the ‘complicated relationships between capital and Pan-Africanism’ in hiplife. A debate was also raised about how to deconstruct the binary between tradition/modernity, and about the importance of research to change the normative representations of what ‘culture’ should be. Finally, an important discussion arose about the importance of such research in changing common representations of Africa as land of violence and war, and in enabling polyphonic and contradictory views on cultural meaning. It reiterated why it is necessary to problematise how we create knowledge and visibility about cultural movements without reifying it through ethnocentric views.

After the conversation proper, the audience and the contributors continued the discussions informally while sharing Daiquiris and a sampling of West African-themed canapés, before joining together on the dance floor where Benjamin Lebrave and DJ John Armstrong offered frenzied rhythms until late at night. It was the time for several members of the audience to reveal their skills as dancers and we observed (and enjoyed) surprising ‘moving conversations’ between dancers and scholars, students and teachers, experts and neophytes.

In sum, even if this event was not exactly a ‘conversation’ and an interaction between two people revealing their experiences, it proved to be a very successful way to gather two different types of experts on contemporary African pop and hip-hop music, for the enjoyment and the learning of all the audience. The size of the audience, their dverse origins (students, dancers, cultural entrepreneurs, scholars) and their great interest for this conference are a proof of the efficiency of such a kind of conversation between arts and the academy for the transmission of knowledge and for the impact of social sciences and the Humanities within and beyond the academy.

1 Howard S. Becker. 2007. Telling About Society. Chicago: Chicago University Press.

2 Jesse Weaver Shipley. 2013. Living the Hiplife: Celebrity and Entrepreneurship in Ghanaian Popular Music. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.

3 For more information, see: http://www.akwaabamusic.com/

4 Watch on youtube here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfcKzQg9IxU

The Moving Group

Moving Group #4: Stepping Dance Lecture Demonstration with Jakari Sherman

Moving Group #4: Stepping Dance Lecture Demonstration with Jakari Sherman and Briana Stuart

By Madison Moore with inputs from Elina Djebbari and Ananya Kabir

When Modern Moves postdoctoral researcher Elina Djebbari first saw Jakari Sherman, on the main stage of the 43th ICTM World Conference in Astana (Kazakhstan) in July 2015, she immediately knew he would be a perfect scholar for Modern Moves to showcase. When it was Jakari’s turn to present his paper, he started to express himself through movement, explaining his intimate and long relationship to Stepping– an African-American dance form where the entire body is used as a percussive instrument. This striking presentation, which moved on to address issues of race and blackness through African American dance moves, made her think more and more of the work we are doing collectively within the Modern Moves team.

On September 21, 2015, therefore, we were delighted to bring back Jakari Sherman– artist, scholar, dancer, and choreographer– and his assistant Briana Stuart, who together led a special Moving Group session in the Anatomy Museum at King’s College London on the practice and history of Stepping.

Stepping Dance Workshop

In the United States stepping is closely linked to HBCUs or Historically Black Colleges and Universities, and in the majority of cases stepping is tightly linked to black fraternities and sororities on campus. The sounds are unique not only because of the percussiveness of a group of bodies hitting themselves but also because of the way these sounds interact with and bounce off of the floor. Stepping necessarily involves stomping on the ground, and during the presentation I was reminded of how closely stepping is related to stomping in the black church. In 1997 gospel singer Kirk Franklin released a song called “Stomp,” a song about praising God. His love is so amazing, the song says, it makes you want to stomp. I remember going to church when I was younger and feeling fascinated by the churchgoers who “caught the spirit” or who were said to have “the Holy Ghost.” They always did this kind of stomp dance either right in the pews or they would free themselves to the aisle and do a stomp-dance up and down it. Stomping was a practice of freedom.

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x1i2qq_kirk-franklin-stomp_music

Historically both related to other African Amerian vernacular practices such as “patting juba” and body percussion forms from further afield in the African diaspora—such as Cape Verdean “batuke”– Stepping – like those other forms—has to be experienced by the body to be apprehended and appreciated fully.

The first thing we did in the stepping workshop was learn to feel our bodies. We lined up in order of height, with the shortest and the tallest person capping the line. Then we had to feel what it was like to be in our bodies at the same time we had to learn how to move as a group, without being directed or told when to move. Jakari had us move our heads from left to right, but we had to do it in unison. ! Our task was to find a rhythm within the group, whatever that rhythm was, making sure that we were all at the same pace, going at the same time, anticipating the movement of the people next to you without looking. It sounds a lot easier than it was, and it took us a while to get it right.

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It’s all about being one body… Photo courtesy Elina Djebbari

Our next team-building exercise was for the shortest person at the front of the line to lead us around the Anatomy Museum in a stylized walk where we stomped hard with our left foot while making a hard, accented lean into the stomp at the same time. We were connected right arm to right shoulder, like a human caterpillar. It was great fun but also hard to do because it was all about finding the same rhythm and moving in sync in an almost militaristic way. If you moved too slow, all your peers behind you would pile into your back. If you moved too fast they wouldn’t be able to keep up. The exercise was useful because of the way it really made us think about our own bodies and how to move as one and as part of a whole group.

Everyone loved the practice-based workshop, and we were even taught a basic stepping routine! But what really turned us on was when Jakari and Briana did a quick demonstration of what stepping looks like. So much athleticism. So much attitude. We can’t wait to have them back for more!

 

As Elina Djebbari reminisced after the Moving Group, ‘combining this practice-based research into the academic world, Jakari and his work on Stepping Dance was surely an interesting discovery for Modern Moves, and I was very glad to be able to organise this Moving Group with him and Briana Stuart. Hopefully, more projects will arise from this event!’ Her wish has come true: even as we publish this account of the Moving Group, we are delighted to learn that the Moving Group indeed did spark off something new-a collaboration between the dancehall expert Cindy Claes, who performed for us at our second Moving Conversation this January and who participated in the Moving Group, has been successful in obtaining a prestigious and highly competitive Artist International Development Fund from the Arts Council England. Modern Moves will be involved in developing their work together on dancehall, body percussion– and the space where they meet. Stay tuned!

In the meanwhile, our biggest congratulations to Jakari, Briana, and Cindy!

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Featured image courtesy Elina Djebbari

News

Moving Conversation #4: Benjamin Lebrave and Jesse Weaver Shipley

Modern Moves flagged off the second year of Moving Conversations with a West Africa feast! On Friday, 27th of November, we hosted a fabulous public talk with

BENJAMIN LEBRAVE, DJ, Prolific commentator on African electronic music, music producer, talent hunter, and founder of Akwaaba Music, Accra, Ghana,
http://www.akwaabamusic.com/

and

JESSE SHIPLEY, Associate Professor of Anthropology at Haverford College, USA, specialist on Ghanaian popular music and dance, and the author of the highly readable and eye-opening book, ‘Living the Hiplife: Celebrity and Entrepreneurship in Ghanaian Popular Music (Duke University Press 2013).
And here is the link to his new book!
http://www.amazon.com/Trickster-Theatre-Poetics-Expressive-Cultures/dp/0253016533

We were also thrilled to follow the conversation with a live performance by newest Afro-beat and Afro-Jazz sensation, ADEDEJI ADETAYO and his band, who are touring Europe currently promoting his new album, ‘A-Free-Ka-Nism’!

Plus: Our encyclopaediac DJ JOHN ARMSTRONG brought along the best of his Afrobeat and High Life collection! We prevailed on our speaker Benjamin LeBrave to take a turn at the decks too to balance the retro with the electro in his DJ avatar of BBRAVE!
There were too many DANCE SURPRISES as per usual 😀
Along with music, dance, and conversation, we brought back our customised menu of West African themed canapes and Daiquiris.

Food, drink, conversation, music, dance– all for free in the heart of London. What more could you ask for?

Make sure not to miss out on Modern Moves’ next Moving Conversations!

 

The Moving Blog

Material Men: (un)making history through dance: Ananya Kabir

‘Grandparents’. ‘Suriname’. ‘Malaya’. ‘Rubber Plantations’. ‘Migrated’. ‘India’. ‘Australia’. ‘Utrecht’. These were the words that announced the presence on stage of two young men half hidden in the shadows—words that were fragments of two fragmented histories now sedimented in their bodies- their dancing bodies. Wrapped in an orange-gold silk sari that was at once placenta, straitjacket, security blanket, and creative inspiration, these Siamese twins conjoined by history now leapt, struggled, and contorted their bodies in a confrontation with themselves, their ancestors, their pasts, presents and futures—indeed time itself. When they broke free of this material, it was to initiate a movement-dialogue using their respective dance styles—bharatanatyam for Sooraj Subramaniam, and hip-hop for Shailesh Bahoran.

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This was Material Men, Sooraj and Shailesh’s inspired collaboration for the Shobana Jeyasingh Dance Company, unfolding before my stunned (and tear-filled) eyes at the Queen Elizabeth Hall of London’s Southbank Centre.

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Earlier this year, I had already enjoyed Lalla RookhShailesh’s inspired intervention into the history of Indian migration using a moving combination of Afro-diasporic street dance styles and Indic ritual. That experience had convinced me that through dance there is indeed a way to link the African and Indian diasporas that empire and capitalism had triggered in waves— the diasporas from the African continent instigated by slavery, and the subsequent diasporas from the Indian subcontinent instigated by indentured labour. Shailesh revealed the universal address of the language of hip-hop and created new solidarities between diasporic cultures which, even though embedded in the same national and transnational spaces, don’t often collaborate or dialogue—except through dance. With Material Men, we went a step further in this use of dance to effect a meeting of histories, diasporas, and the oceans.

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While Shailesh’s ancestors had migrated to Suriname from eastern India to work on the sugarcane plantations after the abolition of slavery, Sooraj’s grandparents had been part of the Indian diaspora that answered Malaya’s need for labour on the British Empire’s rubber plantations. They are the inheritors, therefore, of migrations across the Western and Eastern paths of the Indian Ocean and—in the case of the Indo-Caribbean diasporas, further across the Atlantic. Material Men’s use of Sooraj’s dance repertoire alongside Shailesh’s highlights two possible embodied responses to dance as liberation from this history.

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While Sooraj chose to train in the ‘classical’ styles of India, Shailesh took to an African-diasporic style. In Material Men, their dance styles bend, flex, and gesticulate like their bodies to respond to each other’s life path in dance. Bharatanatyam and hip-hop bleed into each other to create a new thing without a name, yet another witness to the continuous production of newness that ‘creolization’ indicates.
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Of course, each dancer had already ‘creolized’ his chosen dance style through personal twists and interpretations before meeting each other. Shailesh has been using hip-hop to reproduce the robotic machine-metronome of Plantation time, while Sooraj’s pairing of traditional gold necklace with grey trousers and orange belt attested to his own creative take on a classical dance. Now, each with his own vocabulary struggled to make sense of history on a shared stage but in the process freed each other from their individual oppression by that history.

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As the agility of Shailesh’s hip-hop met the raised palms, mudras, and stately postures of Sooraj’s bharatanatyam, the difficulty and exhilaration of the experiment was apparent. Starting out as antagonistic, ending up supporting each other, their sweating, breathing, and panting bodies embraced and intertwined and strained to converse while retaining individuality.

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Different ancestral histories and dance trajectories notwithstanding, Material Men is the process whereby two dancers recognise and celebrate (not just mourn) their similarities grounded in modernity’s collective traumas of displacement and deracination. The sari that opens the show is the ‘material’ of histories of the heart — difficult loves and private domains that lurk beneath official narratives and their deafening silences.

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The sari is the mother– ‘mother India’ with its heavy demand of fidelity to an idea of ‘home’ left far behind. Where and how does the diasporic subject find a toehold in that material/maternal vastness, always just out of reach? How does one acknowledge the caste-based oppression, collusions between colonisers and elites, and poverty that one’s ancestors would have fled, or indeed the adventure of new lives across the oceans (as is the story of Sooraj’s grandparents, who left India of their own volition to seek work)? Is turning to ‘Indian’ dance the answer, or adopting the styles forged by another diaspora?

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Dance allows all answers to be right answers. The point about dance is that it allows a non-narrative freeing of histories that imprison. We talk of provincializing Europe but the need of the hour, which Material Men recognises, is to universalize Asia. The intimate chamber music composed by Elena Kats-Chernin that formed its score enabled this universalizing process, especially when, at a climactic moment, it was punctuated by the vocables of Indic dance. The heaving ribcages exposed by the dancers’ bare torsos, which radiated masculinity, fragility, labour, and beauty in equal measure, paid homage to another universal truth of modernity: the human body and its capacity to extract enjoyment and transcendence through labour and exhaustion. In Sooraj’s words, ‘there are moments in the striving for perfection that we forget to enjoy. In enjoying we get to just be, to embody, which is the true meaning of bhava. Shailesh and I were discussing recently that it is in enjoyment that the spirit of the dance is finally revealed. It is in that enjoyment that perfection, ananda, is attained.’

Material Men premiered at Queen Elizabeth Hall (Southbank Centre, London), on the 17th of September 2015, as part of a double bill by the Shobhana Jeyasingh Company. It continues on a UK-wide tour. Many thanks as always to Shailesh Bahoran whose work always inspires me to write, think, and feel better, and to Sooraj Subramaniam for making me appreciate the true beauty of bharatanatyam after a lifetime of being exposed to the dance.

All photos by Ananya Kabir (except feature image, taken from the event programme)

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